Nepal

I spent 35 days in Nepal, a trip that stayed with me far more than I expected. The first ten days I spent in Kathmandu, at Pomelo House — a simple but welcoming guesthouse, where the smell of masala tea filled the staircase every morning. From there, I’d head out on foot each day and lose myself in the streets of Thamel, wandering between trekking shops, scooters weaving through the chaos, and that constant mix of incense and spices in the air.

I visited Durbar Square, walking among temples that feel older than time itself. Every now and then a monkey would watch me from a rooftop as if I were the main attraction.

After the more “urban” part of the trip, it was finally time for the trek. I reached Salleri by jeep — the classic Nepali kind: noisy, unstoppable, and always shaking. The road itself was an adventure: hours of curves, potholes, cliffs, and views that make you understand how isolated that region truly is. From there, my trek to Everest Base Camp officially began.

The trail changes every day: terraced fields, long suspension bridges, villages with mani-stone walls and prayer wheels spinning in the wind. Reaching Namche Bazaar is one of those moments you don’t forget. After a seemingly endless climb, the village appears almost carved into the mountain, with colorful houses and a rhythm of life that’s slow but steady.

It was in Namche that I met Ocean — French by adoption but really a citizen of the world. We met during an improvised Irish-style night out: beers, music, and a mix of people from everywhere. From that evening on, we continued the trek together.

Day after day, the group grew. I met Dave and Tracy, an English couple who walk as if they have a built-in motor — always smiling, always encouraging everyone. And then there was Venkatesh, from India, a photographer with an incredible calmness. He would stop, frame the shot, click… and for those few seconds it felt like the whole trek slowed down to match his pace. (His IG is worth a look: venkyisliving.)

Between laughs, hot tea, and the headaches that started creeping in because of the altitude, we kept going. Visiting the Italian Pyramid in Lobuche was a surprise: a modern structure in the middle of nowhere, yet somehow it makes you feel a bit “at home,” even thousands of kilometers away.

When we reached Gorak Shep — the last inhabited place before Base Camp — the night didn’t really feel like a night at all. At 3 AM we started climbing up Kala Patthar in complete darkness, with only our headlamps and the crunch of ice under our boots. It was tough, but the sunrise from up there… that’s something you don’t forget: the mountains turning from black to red to gold.

A few hours later we set off toward Everest Base Camp. The last stretch is a mix of rocky moraines, cold wind, and prayer flags fluttering as if pointing the way. And then finally, there it is. No arch, no big celebration — just rocks, ice, and the quiet certainty that you’ve made it.

Between videos, photos, smiles, short breaths, and altitude headaches, we reached it. Together.

The way back felt faster — maybe because the hardest part was done, maybe because the trail had become familiar. But one thing stayed with me: Nepal never really leaves you.

It’s a place that opens you up and empties you at the same time, and when you return home you get the strange feeling that you’ve left something up there… and maybe brought something back with you too.